Mt. Phari Lapcha

Mt. Phari Lapcha

Days from

Since its opening in the year 2002, Mt. Phari Lapch has become very popular among talented climbers as it offers extremely challenging, alpine –style, kilometer-tall lines on steep mixed ice and rock at a relatively low altitude.

Elevation :  6017m Range/Region :  Mahalangur/Khumbu Himal
Latitude :  28o 38 Longitude :  84o 11
Royalty Group :  A Trip duration :  20-22 days
Trip Grade :  not confirmed yet Starts :  Lukla

Phari Lapcha (6,017 m) is a peak in the Mahalangur range (Khumbu Himal) and lies just south west of the popular trekking area of the Gokyo Valley. Phari Lapcha was only added to the permitted trekking peak list in 2002. It has since become popular among talented climbers as it offers extremely challenging, alpine-style, kilometre-tall lines on steep mixed ice and rock at a relatively low altitude.

Phari Lapcha itself has two summits and the East Summit (5,977 m) is slightly lower than the main top. Phari Lapcha is sometimes confused with Machermo (5,237 m) and, Dawa Peak (5,920 m), to the northwest of the main summits has been called Phari Lapcha West though it is arguably an entirely separate peak.

The first official ascent of the mountain was made in the spring of 2003 by Slovenians Juliana and Rey Marcelo Belo with Sherpa support via the south side of the mountain.

Since then there have been a handful of new technical routes put up on the mountain – none of them easy – with names such as Bonfire of the Vanities, the end of the beginning and Independence Day etc.

  • Some of Routes:
  • “Independence Day” – Phari Lapcha East – Polish Team
  • “The end of the beginning” (M4 WI3 ca. 900m) Phari Lapcha West (Machermo) from south face – Norwegians
  • “Bonfire Of The Vanities” – (VI WI4 M5, 1000m) on the north face, Mercader and Sebastian Constant
  • Korean Route - La Nuit de l’Oracle (The Oracle Night) Phari Lapcha East Face , TD-: V WI 3+ M4, 750 m, climbed by Constant, Thomas, Bremond and Degonon
Comming Soon

Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu International Airport- T I A (1300m) and transfer to hotel.

Day 02: After breakfast we set out for an extensive guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu valleys cultural, historical, religious (world heritage) sites. During the course, we visit the famous Pashupatinath temple of Lord Shiva situated at the holy bank of River Bagmati where we will also observe the Hindu cremation ritual. We then proceed to the Boudhanath stupa, a major pilgrimage centre for the Buddhist faith which also is the largest of its kind in the world. We then have a short break for lunch followed by a visit to Swoyambhunath stupa also known as the Monkey Temple from where we can have a bird’s eye view of whole of Kathmandu valley. Following this we then proceed for a visit to Kathmandu Durbar Square, the oldest royal palace of Kathmandu and a UNESCO world heritage site.  The whole area of Kathmandu Durbar Square is dotted with numerous fascinating Nepalese architect dating back many centuries. The site is also the home to Nepal’s living Goddess – Kumari, where we will also have the opportunity to experience firsthand this unique Nepali tradition.  In the evening we will attend the welcome dinner hosted by Makalu Adventure with live Nepalese culture shows.

Day 03: Kathmandu ( 1310m) - Lukla (2827m) - Phakding (2652m) 5 hours:
After a very early start, and an early take off from Kathmandu Domestic Airport, a 45 minute flight is all it takes to propel us into the Everest region of Nepal. The landing at Lukla (2800m) is spectacular and on arrival we are greeted by our sirdar and trekking crew who organise the luggage and hustle us off for tea. After a leisurely lunch we start the trek in earnest, setting off for a gentle walk to Phakding (2800m), a further 3 hours to the north. The trail leads through Lukla, past hotels, shops and airline offices to the edge of the Lukla plateauwhere the trail drops to meet the intersection of the Jiri trail at Chablung. From here the trail follows the Dudh Kosi north through the village of Ghat and then finally to Phakding where we spend the night.

Day 04: Phakding - Namche Bazar (3440m) 6 hours
The trail starts through a level path along the right bank. Thamserku looms skyward on the opposite bank. We cross a stream and climb the terraced hill from the Dudh Koshi route, to arrive at Benkar. The trail now climbs from the riverbed on the left bank into the mountain, through a forest to Chumoa. We continue along a path with many ups and downs; cross a stream, and pass by the tiny village of Monjo. Now we descend the path of stone steps and return to the right bank. After a short climb we come to Jorsale’s tea house and hotel, also stop at the National Park entrance counter where National Park fee is collected. After Jorsale we enter a forested mountainside and follow a short walk along the riverbed of this V-shaped valley where the river forks - the right is the Dudh Koshi and the left is the Bhote Koshi that leads to Nampa La. After covering a short distance along the Bhote Koshi River we begin the steep ascent to Namche Bazaar. As the  mountain path zigzags uphill, we will emerge at a ridge atop a rest area that offers excellent views of Everest (8848m) and Lhotse (8516m.), The  climb eases somewhat, and Namche Bazar appears ahead of us as we travel along the path surrounded by thick pine forest. We then pass the plateau where the Saturday bazaar is held and enter the ever thriving Sherpa town of Namche Bazaar - (3440m) surrounded on three sides by mountain ranges and opening out only where it faces the Bhote Koshi. The village is a central hub of the area and food, sundries and even mountain climbing equipment may be purchased here.  Overnight at Camp or Lodge.

Day 05: leisure (acclimatization) in Namche Bazaar:  
We will rest a full day at Namche Bazar allowing our bodies to acclimatize to the altitude of 3440m. Namche is tucked between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops and souvenir shops with state of the art internet cafes and bakeries. It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off onwards. There are various options for short hikes within Namche during our acclimatization rest. We can have an hour’s walk up to Syangboche (3800m) where the Everest View Hotel is situated with outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru, all along. Alternatively we could as well have a leisurely stroll up to the National Park Centre and Museum just above the town and enjoy the mesmerizing views of the Khumbu Himalayas

We return back to the hotel in the early afternoon for lunch and spend the rest of the day either just laying down or on self exploration

Day 06: Namche Bazaar – Dole (4040m.):
After breakfast in Namche, we head on the trail to Dole. This is a long day which also marks the departure from comfortable accommodations to more "basic" one (from this point on, no more electricity, except for solar panels, or running water). The most outstanding feature of this segment of the trail is the abundance of wildflowers and wildlife including pheasants, mountain goats, and the elusive musk deer as well as the stunning views of Mt. KangTega (6783m) and Thamserku (6618m).  

After lunch, we start a long downhill towards the Dudh Kosi where two trails separate; one that goes directly to Everest base camp, and another, detours to Gokyo before heading to Everest base camp.  The trail in this area is amazing, with long staircases built into cliffs which then eases off and drops to Dole, a beautiful village with a few lodges. But what makes this place the most special is the views of the surrounding mountains. Overnight at Camp or Lodge

Day 07: Dole – Machermo (4410m) 3-4 hrs:
From Dole we start down the path by crossing the fields and climb uphill to the chorten above the village (30 minutes). We then pass a summer settlement and fields and continue on the level which ultimately come to pass the Holyday Inn (1 hour 45 minutes) from where there are  stunning and panoramic views of the mountain, the  view west of Machermo in the evening is specially breathtaking. We continue further along a level path until we come to Luzas where there are a couple of lodges here and cross the village fields and walk gently up through the high altitude meadows. The smooth compacted turf of these ancient yak meadows is a sight to behold and is wonderful underfoot. Eventually we will reach a chorten and prayer flags. From here we can see Machermo. It's a pleasant walk downhill from here to Machermo (3 hours 50 minutes).  Overnight at Camp or Lodge.

Day 08: Machermo – Gokyo (4750m) 5 hrs:
Today we head for the holy lakes at Gokyo following a very scenic path to Pangka (4548m.) then descend slightly, following one of the melt water rivers which flow down the west side of the Ngozumba Glacier. The walk offers spectacular views of the incredible ice face of Cholatse and is easy until we reach a steep rocky incline into the ablation valley by the side of the glacier and get to the first of the holy lakes. Then it flattens out and we soon arrive at the second of the lakes, crossing the path which heads across the glacier to the Cho La.  The third lake is known as Dudh Pokhari and on its east shore is the summer settlement of Gokyo (4800m.). Walking by the side of the lake, the scenery is magnificent with the summits of Cho Oyo and Gyachung Kang reflected in its emerald green waters. There are several lodges for trekkers.

A short walk up the hill behind Gokyo village we then reach the top of the lateral moraine of the Ngozumba Glacier. With a length of around 40km is the largest glacier in Nepal. Like all large Himalayan glaciers it is covered in debris and rock and we can only see the ice in parts. Sitting over Gokyo at almost 5000m looking at this glacier and watching the play of evening light and clouds on it is an unforgettable experience. Overnight at Camp or Lodge.

Day 09: Acclimatization and camp checkout lines on the north face of Phari Lapcha

Day 10: Early morning visit to Gokyo-Ri (5360) and return to Gokyo, 6 hrs:
Climbing up Gokyo Ri is technically very straightforward: we just walk right up the steep hill. The problem is of course that this hill is located at above 5000m so we can expect the going to be very slow and quite breathless unless we are already well acclimatized.

But if we manage to pace ourselves and stop often enough we will be rewarded with some of the best views on offer in the region of Khumbu.  If the weather is clear we will be rewarded with views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu, four of the eight highest mountains on earth.

The descent from Gokyo Ri follows the same route as the ascent. The second part of the day is spent going back down to the second lake of Gokyo then crossing the Ngozumba glacier. Himalayans glaciers, especially large ones, are covered with rocks and debris and we don't really see the huge masses of ice that they contain when looking at them from a distance. The roughly two hours spent crossing the glacier make us realize that under the rock there is plenty of ice, deep crevaces, pools, even torrents of fast flowing water. Then suddenly we find ourselves crossing sand dunes (the grinding of the glacier produces lots of fine sand).

Eventually we reach the lateral moraine and return to Gokyo for overnight.

Day 11: Pack kit for Phari Lapcha.

Day 12: Attempt line of LHS of the north face of Phari Lapcha – retreat to Gokyo

Day 13: Rest and Acclimatization.

Day 14: Rest and Acclimatization.

Day 15: Start “Snotty’s Gully” on Dawa Peak (Bivvy).

Day 16: “Snotty’s Gully” and descent to Machermo.

Day 17: Rest day

Day 18: Trek to Machermo to Namche Bazaar
It takes about five hours. The trail gently descends to Dole and then starts descending steeply to Photse Tenga (3650m.) passing through rhododendron forests. Then the path immediately ascends steeply to Mongla Danda (4000m.) and gently descends up to Kyanjoma (3500m.) following small ups and down to Namche Bazaar.  

Day 19: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla
It takes about five hours. The last day of our trek leads from Namche Bazaar via Monjo to Lukla. The trek is pleasant, except for few short uphill climbs and then down to the Bhote-Koshi River crossing it three times. The last uphill climb of 45 minutes will bring us to Lukla for our overnight stay. In the evening we bid farewell to guides and porters.

Day 20: Fly to Kathmandu
The hair-raising take-off is followed by a 45 minute flight back to Kathmandu, where we arrive in the late morning. Here we will be taken to the Hotel and the afternoon is free to get cleaned up and take a trip into Kathmandu, before the rather cheerful farewell dinner in the evening hosted by Makalu Adventure in honor of the conquering crew.  

Day 21: At leisure in Kathmandu, last minute shopping etc.

Day 22: Final departure.

Trip Cost Includes
  • All ground transfers as per our itinerary.
  • Thamel Eco resort Hotel in Kathmandu (including breakfast and all taxes).
  • Guided sightseeing in Kathmandu (including all entrance fees).
  • Welcome Dinner with Live Nepali Program hosted by Makalu Adventures.
  • Mt. Phari Lapcha Climbing Permit Fee
  • National Park Permit Fees (including all other entrance fees whereas applicable)
  • Mountain guide for climbing support (including his daily wages and insurance).
  • Airfare: Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu.
  • Fully organized camping trek arrangement (best camping equipments, tents, mattresses & etc)
  • Guide, cook, kitchen helper/porters - with their daily wages, insurance, foods and other expenses occurring in connection of this trip Everyday three times meals on trek, prepared by our very professional kitchen crew.

For Lodge-to-Lodge Trek (if and where applicable):

  • Accommodation and foods as available on the local lodges on the way while trekking
Trip Cost Excludes
  • Nepal visa fee.
  • Airport taxes.
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu.
  • Excess baggage charges.
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu.
  • Extra night accommodation.
  • Travel and rescue insurance.
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottle or boiled water, showers etc).
  • Helicopter rescue and evacuation if required.
  • Tips and gratitude

Comming Soon
Comming Soon